There's much read here, so take your time and learn all there is to know about the most common questions our customers ask.
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(General Service)
(Carpet Issues)
(Upholstery Cleaning)
(Tile & Grout)
Question 1: How do you clean carpet, rugs, and upholstery?
We are a truck-mounted company, meaning our hoses connect to our truck where everything is powered. The only thing we need to hook up to is your outside water source (or inside, if an outside source is unavailable). The truckmount then heats the water to 230 degrees, and the technicians use a wand (cleaning tool) to inject the water at about 700 psi into the carpet fibers and about 300 psi into the upholstery fibers to break up dirt and soils. As the technicians are doing this, an incredibly strong vacuum sucks up all of the dirty water where it goes back into our truckmount's recovery tank. During cleaning, we will spot treat any stubborn or non-water soluble spots with solvents and/or presprays.
Question 2: Is actual steam used for cleaning my carpet?
No, that's just the name commonly used for this kind of cleaning. It's actually called a "Hot-Water Extraction". However, the water pressure and heat are high enough to make it look like steam during the cleaning, so that's why the term "steam cleaning" is generally used.
Question 3: Do you move furniture?
Yes, if there is furniture you would like us to clean under, we will move it free of charge. The technicians will simply move a piece just far enough to clean where it goes, and then put it back in place with protective pieces underneath to ensure the furniture won't stain or rust out the carpet. We ask that you leave these protective pieces under the furniture for 3 days. It will not take that long for the carpet to dry, but it is just to be safe as it may stay damp a little longer under the pressure points of the furniture. Please note: Some furniture will not be able to be moved, such as: China Cabinets, Large Beds, Electronics, Rickety /Unstable Pieces, or items which are too heavy to be supported by our protective pieces. We also do not move items with breakables on them, so if there is a specific item that you would like moved, we just graciously ask that you remove those breakables prior to our cleaning.
Question 4: How long does it take to dry?
The carpet should dry in about 6-12 hours, generally closer to the 8 hour mark. Any furniture that is cleaned should be dry in about half the time it takes carpet to dry, usually just a few hours. The carpet will feel dry-to-the-touch before it's completely dry, so make sure you don't put anything back on the carpet until the next day, such as rugs, computer mats, plants, or pieces removed prior to cleaning. Leaving ceiling fans running may help shorten the drying time.
Question 5: Can I walk on the carpet after you clean?
Yes, you can walk on it right away, as long as you don't track anything onto the carpet during the drying time. The carpet will be more susceptible to staining when it is wet, so make sure you wear only clean soled shoes or slippers. Bare feet are also acceptable, but we do ask that you be careful and watch your step going from carpet to any hard surface flooring, as it may be slick due to damp soles or feet.
Question 6: Do I need to vacuum first before my carpet, upholstery, or rug cleaning?
There is no need to vacuum first, unless there are large pieces of debris on the carpet. We do an extraction, so everything will be sucked up anyway by our powerful truck-mounted vacuum system. Any areas that have excessive debris or are dusty will be pre-vacuumed by the technicians prior to cleaning, most notably beneath sofas and other seldom-moved pieces of furniture.
Question 7: Is there anything I need to do to prepare?
We just ask that you remove smaller knick-knacks from the areas to be cleaned, and also remove the breakables from any pieces of furniture you'd like us to move. Also, if you can make sure your outside water spigot is working, because we'll need to hook up to that. And, because we are truck-mounted, we'll need to park in the closest spot in the driveway to the front door. You can also see our blog here for a quick reference.
Question 8: What should my thermostat be set at? My air conditioning is broken, is that okay? (only on non-humid, temperate days is it okay)
The inside air is very important. Air flow and air temperature are the two biggest factors in drying. The thermostat should be set in the low 70's and with the fan in the "ON" position, not "AUTO". Continuous air flow is best. The AC will act as a dehumidifier and speed the drying process. Just make sure all windows are shut, especially on a humid day when extra moisture will be drawn into the house.
Question 9: Our power is shut off. Can you still clean?
Yes, as long as there is daylight and the outside temperatures will allow. Our truckmount powers everything. Only the water to the house needs to be on.
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Question 10: I have a dark/black line along my baseboards. What is that? Will it come out?
That's called soil filtration, and is a very common thing in most carpeted homes. It's basically all the carbon and oil-based soils (not just harmless dust and debris) in the air that are getting filtered in the carpet at those areas. It will happen anywhere there's a small gap that creates enough vacuum for air to be able to flow, such as the gaps underneath the baseboards where carpet is tucked, between the thresholds of doors that are generally kept closed, and even around drapes or sofa skirts that hang within a half inch of the carpet. It will also form wherever there is a stopping point for air, such as around nightstands or items in a closet that have been in the same place for a very long time. It's something that takes years of continuous filtering before it gets fairly noticeable. At best it may lighten a bit, but it's generally a permanent issue. To prevent it from getting worse, we recommend changing your air filters once a month, breaking off your vacuum’s edger to use along the baseboards every so often, and having your air ducts professionally cleaned. Also, avoid burning any candles or incense in the house, because the excess carbons released will greatly promote and speed up the filtration process.
For a more in-depth explanation and sample photos, click here.
Question 11: Do you get spots out?
It all depends on what the exact issue is. The cleaning alone will get out most dirt and food-based spots. We will use certain water-free solvents on non-soluble and oil-based spots, which is quite effective. Certain issues may cause permanent staining or actually be an alteration of color or dye spot, so we can't guarantee anything over the phone as far as spots are concerned. The crew can assess the areas of concern before they begin the cleaning and let you know more.
Question 12: Do you get pet stains out?
Yes and no. Cleaning can only correct certain pet spots. It all depends on how it affected the fibers. Urine comes out as an acid, but dries as an alkaline salt. During that process, the alkaline may strip certain dyes from the carpet and replace it with the urochrome color of the urine. Generally, the brighter, more fluorescent-looking spots will be permanent alterations of color. The darker the urine spot, the better chance there is that it’s actually coating the fiber and may be released through cleaning. Pet vomit is a similar issue, yet may also have dye stains from certain pet foods.
Question 13: Do you get ink out?
Ink is usually a 50/50. We have solvents that will help us remove smaller ink spots, some with ease. Very large spills or areas that have been scrubbed will be much more difficult to remove. Rubbing it will actually work it more into the fibers. The crew will know more when they get out there and can see the spot they're dealing with.
Question 14: Do you get Kool-Aid out, reds, or other juice and colored stains?
Generally, no. They use dyes to get the colors for those drinks, so those spills will actually dye the fibers that color. Most brightly colored stains will be from dyes and then make it a color issue, not a cleaning issue. But there’s always a chance the spot is only coating the fiber, so we’ll always do our best to see if the spots can be removed. In the photo shown, this red drink stain had straight bleach poured on it afterward in hopes to remove it. The color-stripped area around the stain is the result. This goes to show how strong certain drink dyes can be, where the dyes of the carpet itself will be removed instead of the stain.
Question 15: The traffic area in my hall, stairs, and in front of the sofa is really bad. Will it clean up or look better?
The crew will always concentrate on heavy traffic areas. Dirt and soils will be removed and the area will be clean, however the wear is irreversible. Everything is wear-dated, including the fabric dyes added by the manufacturer. When the fibers become prematurely worn in areas of heavy use, they will dull out and lose their original luster/color, so it will always look darker in those areas (or more pale, depending on the kind of carpet). If the areas had been previously cleaned with a home cleaner or spot cleaner, much of that dark area may just be excess dirt attracted by the residue left in the carpet. If that's what has caused the darkness, then it should look a lot better.
Question 16: Will the pile stand up again after the cleaning where it had been flattened out?
The pile will be lifted up by the cleaning, but will flatten back down after you walk on it. That's actually a textural issue caused by heavy wear and is irreversible.
Question 17: Do you do any carpet repairs?
No, sorry, just cleaning.
Question 18: How often should I get my carpet cleaned?
Having regularly scheduled routine maintenance is important to help maximize the life of your carpet. The National Certification Board for the industry recommends that carpet be cleaned once a year for routine maintenance, but every 4 to 6 months for interim maintenance is fine if there are pets, kids, or a lot of traffic. We recommend not going longer than every 2 years though. Even if the carpet doesn't look bad, it's still a filter and will breakdown faster with all those hidden soils.
It is typical for commercial settings with high traffic to have their carpets professionally cleaned every 1 to 6 months, depending on its usage.
Question 19: How often should I get my upholstery cleaned?
The industry standard recommends that upholstery be cleaned every 2 years for routine maintenance.
Question 20: Can you steam clean my furniture? Will it clean nice or the spots come out?
That's something we can't assess without seeing first. There's a very wide range of fabrics and blends when it comes to upholstery, so that will determine how well it will clean and if it needs to be steam cleaned or dry cleaned. However, fabrics that can safely take on water and absorb well will generally flush much better.
Question 21: I just want the cushions cleaned or just the arms cleaned. Can you do that?
Yes, the crew can give you a price for that once they get out there and see it.
Question 22: Do you clean and condition leather furniture?
Yes, we have a cleaner/conditioner we apply to the leather. This will help keep the leather "healthy", by preventing the drying-out and cracking process.
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Question 23: Tile & Grout Cleaning and Restoration. How much will it cost? Will it clean well?
Tile and Grout is something we have to measure out and give an estimate for. The crew will have to see it first to know what can be done with it. They'll check to make sure it's a sanded grout and will address any issues. If the crew cleans the tile & grout and there are still stains on any part of the grout, the color seal will go over that and make the grout lines look uniform and brand new.
Question 24: Do you clean marble, slate, terrazzo, travertine, or any other natural stone?
No, sorry, just ceramic or porcelain. ***(Terrazzo is a composition tile of natural stone pieces and sometimes glass chips. Travertine is a form of limestone deposits and is always in earth tones)***
Question 25: How often should tile and grout be cleaned? How often should grout be sealed?
Regular maintenance with a professional neutral clean should be every 1 to 3 years after it's sealed, depending on how much use the area gets. Without a seal, it will get dirtier faster and should be cleaned as needed. Once it's sealed though, it can have many neutral cleanings without having the seal removed. Years down the road, if you notice the seal breaking down, it can be stripped and re-sealed.
Question 26: How long does the color seal last?
That all depends on the kind of use the area gets, plus the quality of the grout and how well it was installed. Generally though, the seal should last for 5 to 10 years or more. Regular maintenance with a neutral clean should give it the longest life.
Question 27: What is color seal? What kind of seal is it? What does the seal do?
Our color seal is an acrylic titanium resin that has a modified urethane sealing agent. By filling into the pores of sanded grout joints, it acts as a waterproof barrier between the dirt and your grout. This helps protect the actual grout itself, as well as making it easier to clean and maintain the surface.
Question 28: What colors do you have of the seal?
We usually use the most popular earth tones, but any custom color can be made... just like how paint is mixed. We have a sample kit of color seals that can be applied as test spots to help customers choose a color.
Question 29: My shower stall grout is really bad. Can you clean that?
Showers and bathtub areas can get really bad fast, because of the kind of use it gets. Mineral deposits, soils, and cleaners all affect that area, so a cleaning with sealing typically doesn't hold too well for very long. The technician must assess the area of concern in person to see what, if anything, can be done. There is no charge for estimates or assessments.
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